http://planetelderscrolls.gamespy.com/
I recommend better bodies, better heads, better clothes, Oblivion-style mana regen, cliff racer removal, and probably a whole mess of other shit I forgot about
I eventually modded the game so hard that it refused to run even after reinstalling it, but I think I got it close to being playable. I wish they'd just port it to Oblivion's engine and remove dynamic leveling so the game doesn't feel and look like an N64 title from 1995. Even with better bodies everyone is seated firmly in the uncanny valley due to the horrifyingly shitty animations.